KNOTS


"It's better to know a knot and not need to use it rather than needing a knot and not knowing how to use it"

- Gary Zink, Tacoma Scramble Leader



Few skills are as fundamental to climbing as working with rope. Your life literally depends on your mastery of the subject. This article and accompanying videos cover the most common knots, hitches and bends used in climbing.

For starters, you need to understand the distinction between a “knot” and other key terms related to rope management:

There are many knots worth knowing as a mountaineer, but with these seven essential climbing knots, hitches and bends, you can complete many of the most fundamental tasks, like securing the rope to a harness, downclimbing and building anchors.

Try learning and practicing these knots using 4-8 foot lengths of 5mm cord and 1inch webbing.  REI will often have scraps available to give you if you ask.  Please let your Conditioner Leader know if you need any practice material and we'll see what may be available to loan you.

Click on each of the images for an animated view of how each knot is dressed.


KNOTS & WHAT KNOT

Alpine Butterfly

The Alpine Butterfly Knot is used to form a fixed loop in the middle of a rope. Tied in the bight, it can be made in a rope without access to either of the ends; this is a distinct advantage when working with long climbing ropes. An excellent mid-line rigging knot, the Alpine Butterfly is easy to inspect for correctness, can be loaded in any direction, and can be tied with gloves on. In a climbing context it is also useful for traverse lines, some anchors, shortening rope slings, and for isolating damaged sections of rope.  

The Alpine Butterfly is symmetrical and handles multi-directional loading well. It is relatively easy to untie after loading.

The Alpine Butterfly loop has a high breaking strength and is regarded by mountaineers as one of the strongest knots to attach climbers to the middle of a rope. It also is able to take strain in any direction.

Bowline

The Bowline is used to make a fixed loop in the end of a line. The Bowline is well known as a rescue knot for such purposes as rescuing people who might have fallen down a hole, or off a cliff onto a ledge. They would put it around themselves and sit on the loop. This makes it easy to heft them up away from danger.  The bowline can be used to create an anchor around trees and other natural features.

Double Fisherman

The Double Fisherman's knot is a bend used to join two lengths of rope that are of equal or similar diameter.  A primary use of this knot is to form high strength loops of cord, like a Prusik, for connecting pieces of a climber's protection system. 

The knot is formed by tying a Double Overhand Knot, in its strangle knot form, with each end around the opposite line's standing part.

The Double Fisherman's Knot can be made more secure by adding an extra turn to each end -- making it into a Triple Fisherman's Knot.


Girth Hitch

The Girth Hitch is commonly used to connect a short section of cord to an object with a pre-cut hole such as found on a name tag or whistle. The Lanyard Hitch is also often used to attach short sections of rope to a ring or grommet such as those found on a tent or tarp. In the case of a name tag or whistle, though the cord ends may have been previously tied or fused to form a single loop, the cord can still be threaded through the object and passed through itself to form the hitch. 


Klemheist

The Klemheist Knot (klem is the Dutch word for "clamp") is a type of friction hitch that grips a rope when weight is applied, and is free to move when the weight is released. It is used similarly to a Prusik knot to ascend or descend a climbing rope. One advantage is that webbing can be used as an alternative to cord. The Klemheist is easier to slide up than a Prusik. 

The Klemheist is formed using a Prusik loop. This loop can be made using a short section of rope joined by a Double Fisherman's Knot. Alternatively, the loop may be purchased, already formed, from climbing shops.

As a general rule, the diameter of the cord used in these types of friction hitches should be no more than 70% the diameter of the primary climbing line. However, this rule of thumb is dependent on the stiffness and type of material used in the cord. The heat generated from friction should also be considered as it can damage the cord.


Prusik

A Prusik is a friction hitch or knot used to put a loop of cord around a rope, applied in climbing, canyoneering, mountaineering, caving and rope rescue.  The term Prusik is a name for both the loops of cord and the hitch, and the verb is "to prusik". 

One component of the Prusik Knot is the Prusik Loop. This loop can be made using a short section of rope joined by a Double Fisherman's Knot. Alternatively, the loop may be purchased, already formed, from climbing shops. Due to its symmetric nature, Prusik hitches have the advantage of working in both directions. Most mechanical rope-grabs work like a ratchet, moving freely up the rope, but grabbing when a load is placed down on them. Traditional Prusiks will grab when pulled by the tail, either up or down, and will slide either way when pushed by the barrel.

Prusiks provide a strong attachment that will not damage or break the rope. Prusiks are ineffective upon frozen wet ropes. This is due to the necessity of friction for the Prusik to function.




Water Knot

The Water Knot is frequently used in climbing for joining two ends of webbing together. 

The Water Knot is a "rewoven" Overhand Knot meaning an overhand knot is tied at the end of one rope/webbing and then the second rope follows the turns of the first in parallel, but from the opposite direction. When complete, the working ends will exit the knot on opposite sides.

Water Knots may slip very slightly, but very consistently, with each load and unload cycle, leaving a need for long tails. Water Knots should be inspected before each use. For additional security, the ends can be taped or lightly sewn to the standing parts to help prevent them from creeping back into the knot.




Knots 3D App

A widely used application can be downloaded to learn the various knots and view tutorials on methods to successfully complete the required knots.



Once you have become proficient with tying and applying the knots above, consider learning the additional knots below and adding these to your toolkit.

Figure Eight Loop

The Figure Eight Loop is used to put a fixed loop in the end of a rope, or around an object. It is relatively easy to tie and is secure, but can become difficult to untie after heavy loading, and can jam badly in any rope type. 

One can easily make a loop by doubling the rope, then tying the standard Figure Eight Knot. If the loop has to be made around a post or through a ring, and only one end of the rope is available, the follow-through method is used by tying a loose figure eight knot in the rope, then putting the working end around the object. The working end is retraced through the original figure eight knot to form a double figure eight. 

Figure Eight Follow-Through

A Figure Eight Loop is used in climbing and caving where rope strains are light to moderate and is used to put a fixed loop in the end of a rope, or around an object. It is relatively easy to tie and is secure, but can become difficult to untie after heavy loading, and can jam badly in any rope type. The follow-through method is used when the knot must be tied around an object that cannot easily have a loop slipped over it. In particular, it is used to attach a rope to a climbing harness.

The final structure of the Figure Eight Follow Through is identical to the Figure Eight Loop -- it is just the method of tying that differs. One can easily make a loop by doubling the rope, then tying the standard Figure Eight Knot. If the loop has to be made around a post or through a ring, and only one end of the rope is available, the follow-through method is used by tying a loose Figure Eight knot in the rope, then putting the working end around the object or through a ring. The working end is retraced through the original Figure Eight knot.



Munter

The Munter Hitch is a simple knot, commonly used by climbers as part of a life-lining or belay system. This technique can be used with any locking carabiner wide enough to take two turns of the rope. The Munter hitch creates friction by having the rope rub on itself and on the object it has been wrapped around. There is no static friction on any part of the rope as it is a continuously moving knot. One very useful aspect of the Munter is its reversibility; it can be pulled from either side of the rope and it still works just as effectively. 

One advantage of the Munter Hitch is it can more effectively dissipate heat than a belay device because no two surfaces of the rope are in contact with each other for more than an instant. However, it places more bends in a rope than other belay methods, and creates significantly more friction on the outer sheath. It can also introduce significant twists to the rope.

Clove Hitch

The structure of the Clove Hitch is identical to that of the Two Half Hitches -- except that the Clove Hitch is tied around a post or ring rather than the standing end of the rope.

The Clove Hitch is very secure when both sides of the knot are under tension. However, when only loading one end, the hitch is prone to slip.